Atc Lead Belay. It consists of a tubular design that allows the rope to pass thro

It consists of a tubular design that allows the rope to pass through it smoothly while providing friction to arrest a climber's fall. I was attached to a separate anchor to hold me in place. Figure-8 belay devices (e. 6 Belay Devices - How to use them to Av Jan 31, 2016 · The Black Diamond ATC XP is one of our favorite manual belay devices and provides an excellent value. [1][2] belay off A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been removed from a climbing rope. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. Apparently b/c my belayer was already lead certified (I had to complain to the gym to get her lead card pulled two days after the decking - it's beyond me how this wasn't done), they decided not to backup belay while I was climbing. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. 5 mm range. The weight difference isn't great but its something she will have to learn to deal with, probably with a lot heavier guys as well. Plate-style belay devices (e. Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. We can use either single rope or two-strand rope (either half rope or twin). It is smooth, lightweight, and durable. Any good idiot proof ideas? Nov 15, 2016 · The geometry of the ATC-Pilot makes it easier for a belayer to catch (and hold) a fall by increasing the friction on the rope. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. 7 to 10. Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. ** A demonstration of belay techniques and some of the concerns raised in the comments section of the Hard Is Easy video: • Ep. Bomber bolted anchor: belay off the anchor. Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. Aug 22, 2021 · Can you belay with an ATC? While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. The Aviator's unique ergonomic "fin" can be used to modulate speed while How do you guys set up a tuber belay using the anchor that works for switching leads (I lead up to anchor, belay my partner up who then leads the next pitch)? I want a set up that I don't have to change / manage when we switch lead that works with minimal gear and faff. People who learn how to climb outdoors, with experienced trad or sport climbers, might be encouraged to practice lead belaying right away. Looks like mansplaining to me. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. I use an ATC Pilot for single pitch lead belaying. I like it because I find it very easy to feed slack and provide an overall smooth belay in addition to being an assisted braking device. If you want to learn more about belaying a climber from above, check out these 3 methods here. ATC Guide can be used for ropes of diameters from 7. Jan 3, 2024 · But what is the best belay device to use? There’s a whole lot of different belay devices out there, but today, let’s take a look at two of the most popular belay devices out there: the Petzl Gri-Gri and the ATC – their respective advantages, disadvantages and best applications. Check out this article for an overview of what for many will be a new technique. Knowing how to belay from above is an important skill for a climber. Lead belaying is more complicated that just delivering slack. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. For top rope belaying I don't mind either and for self belaying then, obviously, an assisted device wins. A poor traditional anchor made out of necessity: belaying off your belay loop allows you to use your body to try to reduce the forces that make it to an anchor. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Jan 5, 2026 · The device is a versatile and reliable belay tool that performs well for top-rope belaying, lead belaying, rappelling, and multi-pitch climbing. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? [14] belay loop The strongest point on a climbing harness, and the loop to which a belay device is physically attached. Here is why/how: Leader 1 leads the first pitch, sets up the anchor, places the second on belay using the guide-mode on the non-brake-assisted device (if one device is not brake assisted). Depends on the fall, but for high fall-factors you can expect a good amount of slippage. Tube-style devices Black Diamond ATC Black Diamond ATC Guide Black Diamond ATC-XP 4. Simple Belaying Techniques: This is a brief step-by-step guide to belaying with an ATC device in an indoor climbing environment! Dec 13, 2023 · When I was learning how to use the GriGri, my main hang up was that it seemed easier to short-rope a lead climber. How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. What's the best way to let slack out quickly using an ATC? I always feel like I'm fighting the atc to let… Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. It functions and is used the same way as the ATC, except it has an additional loop for belaying in guide mode. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. In a standard top rope setting, the belayer stands below the climber as they ascend, controlling Aug 20, 2024 · In lead climbing and sport climbing, an ATC (Air Traffic Controller) is a type of belay device used to control the rope during belaying and rappelling. With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Though the principles of belaying are the same whether it is for a lead climber or a top-rope climber, certain technical practices differ. How to Lead Belay for Indoor Climbing | Rock Climbing Howcast 9. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. This video shows the AMGA standard way of belaying and lowering from the top with an ATC. There's only so many basic belay device designs, and having started with ATCs, I never let go with my brake hand. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. Sep 14, 2020 · – Best Assisted Braking Device For Beginners – Lead Climbing – Beal Birdie – Best Beginner Tube Style Belay Device – Black Diamond ATC Guide – Cheapest Beginner Belay Device Set – Black Diamond ATC XP Package Why Get A Beginner Belay Device? As you learn climbing it will initially feel very unsafe. #multipitch # May 5, 2025 · It is relatively easy to learn the proper belay technique, and the device can be used easily for lead belaying, top-rope belaying, and belaying the follower directly off the anchor. When doing a multi-pitch climb, which is a long climb … Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. Mar 16, 2022 · After that, the next logical step is to learn lead climbing and how to belay a lead climber. Climbers spend half of their time belaying—make sure you know all of the nuanced tips on how to belay in every situation. The ATC XP: another belay device from Black Diamond inspired by the classic ATC. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Leave the new-leader in the guide-mode belay. Mar 28, 2019 · The Ergo and the ATC Pilot are assisted braking belay devices. The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of the system, you need to give the Nov 17, 2023 · You can use an ATC-style device to belay a climber on top rope or lead, from above or below the climber, and you can also use it to belay two following climbers at once (or one climber using half and twin ropes). Join StoneMan Climbing Co. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. A brief demonstration on how to load rope into your ATC belay device. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. All the ATC variations mentioned above can be used for top rope belaying. I always bring gloves for belaying for this exact reason. When I did complain to management two days later, they decided that all future tests will have backup belays. I've tried my standard tubular ATC, a BD Pilot atc and a BD ATC Guide. Apr 10, 2015 · AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains how to belay a lead climber. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. Dec 16, 2017 · When doing a multi-pitch and you reach a belay station (the top of a pitch) you can choose between belaying the lead climber from the body (like you do e. Experienced climbers felt that using it felt very similar to operating a regular Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Verso. Once you’ve mastered the art of top roping, it’s time to learn how to lead belay. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. It is used in the same way as traditional tube-style devices, meaning that it is very user friendly and a great introduction into the realm of assisted belay devices. The Climbing Nomads - We explore how to lead belay safely and effectively and include some tips about position, arresting a lead fall and soft catches. When belaying the same technique for "taking in" that is used with an ATC or similar device is used, however in the event of a fall instead of having to "lock off the device" the belay does nothing and the device locks by itself. Its possible to belay with them, but not recommended (or at least I have never seen one advertised as anything but a descender/rappelling device). e. The fallen climber is held by the belay device, until the belayer decides to lower the climber by rotating the device and modulating the lowering speed with their brake hand. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. Jul 13, 2018 · We found the Black Diamond ATC Pilot to be incredibly intuitive with a quick learning curve to become proficient in both lead and top-rope belaying. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber and Nov 6, 2022 · Yes, you can lead belay with an ATC. Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC Guide: the ATC Guide is like the ATC’s big brother. It's not the absolute cheapest option but is the An all-new geometry assisted braking device, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. Nov 6, 2017 · Curious on others experiences with lead belay devices. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. indoors where you aren't doing multi-pit We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. A description of the proper technique for lead belaying for sport or traditional rock climbing. com/belay The Black Diamond ATC Pilot brake assist belay device is just one of many new devices taking the industry by storm. Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. If your blocking carabine I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. Hi, pretty new to lead climbing/belaying. , Kong Gigi) 2. A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. Feb 8, 2024 · In certain situations, it can be beneficial to belay a leader directly off of an anchor rather than from your harness. ) So, I started asking questions. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. g. Jun 19, 2023 · Discover the basic principles of belaying, and how they can be applied to top-rope belaying and to skilled lead belaying—including catching lead falls. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. I was skeptical about the Black Diamond ATC-Pilot when it was first released because there are numerous similar devices already on the market. It's smooth and intuitive and allows me to quickly feed out rope. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. It costs very little and last a long time. Here’s a review from an REI expert. We do not show you how to use the device to belay. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. Jul 8, 2021 · ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. This is also known as belaying the second (i. If the climber should fall while the belay hand is sliding towards the device, it is very difficult to hold a fall. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! For lead climbing, a Grigri is more difficult to use correctly than an ATC; for top-rope climbing, the opposite is true. Belays are typical done using ATCs, ATC Pilots and Grigris. What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. 34M subscribers Subscribed I prefer the ATC myself, as I'm not comfortable with using the GriGri for belaying a lead climber. But what Aug 5, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. I used a mega jul for the first time belaying a friend on lead (trad) because he wanted it for the auto-braking instead of my ATC guide. 2 days ago · Smooth lead belaying I'm loving the ATC Pilot for belaying lead climbs. Jul 5, 2016 · Now the instructor at the wall I'm at was showing how to direct belay from the anchor at the top using an ATC style device with teeth on one side. When using two-strand rope each strand is pulled through its own longitudinal opening in the body belay device. Many climbers enjoy lead belaying with a device with such a simple design because of how smoothly they pay out slack as the lead climber ascends. Aug 21, 2018 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. Jun 21, 2023 · Belaying is the method by which a person maintains friction on a rope to keep the attached climber from falling or falling to the ground. As it turns out, this device is for the climbing gym or the crag. Mostly used in multi-pitch climbing and also great for having a su Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. You c Jan 10, 2018 · If you’re getting into climbing or just starting your foray into top rope or lead climbing, you get the need for a great belay device. When the lead climber reaches the top, he needs to belay up the climber who was belaying at the bottom. COMPARE EVERY BELAY DEVICE, FROM EVERY BRAND: https://weighmyrack. For serious falls (e. ATC's are the standard device with Grigri's being a bit less common. It is a standard response to a climber's " off belay " request. The second arrives at the belay station and is ready to lead pitch 2 (now referred to as the new-leader). The GriGri is hands-down the most popular active assisted braking device available. I find the standard tubular to be my go to for lead belay, it just feels predictable and easy. GriGri vs ATC Belay Device: What’s The Difference? What is Our most versatile belay/rappel device, with excellent feeding and pulling in guide mode, the ATC-Guide is ready for any multi-pitching mission from wandering granite routes in the Bugaboos to bomber limestone in El Potrero. Everything about the lead-climbing system is dynamic; from the ropes to falls, and your belaying should align. Forged and machined aircraft aluminum body for light weight and optimal heat dissipation, the Aviator's unique removable spring keeps the device from locking when you feed the rope. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Aug 17, 2019 · To bring a second climber up to join the lead climber at a belay stance, the method of taking in slack rope shown in this video does not work, because the live rope needs to be pulled upwards through the device rather than downwards. The belay device is what keeps you or your partner safe while you’re up on the wall and take a fall, so other than a great harness I’d say that a great belay device is the second most important piece of gear you can own and learn to use well. Aug 7, 2025 · Belaying is a technique of managing slack in a climbing system to safeguard a climber and prevent the climber from taking a dangerous fall. Nov 24, 2015 · And, for general use lead belaying, an ATC type (other friction devices are available) is simpler, cheaper, smoother and lighter. Here are our in-depth reviews. Learning to lead belay with a grigri or ATC? I was wondering if it is better to learn lead belay on an ATC and later transition to a grigri or just go strait to belaying with a grigri? I will be learning in a gym with no intent to climb multi pitch outdoor or anything yet. it's not a problem with an autolocker. But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. This can be used for both single pitch and multipitch applications in rock climbing. But I’m a huge gear nerd, so I had to try it out this assisted braking belay device. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. . The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Nov 19, 2025 · Table of Contents What is a tube style belay device? Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. Before top roping, lead climbing, or using the auto belay on your own, you must take and pass the required test or orientation first. , Kong Oka) 3. The Aviator also works for belaying seconds off an anchor and can be easily rigged for releasing a load when used off an anchor as well. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. It depends on the strength of the anchor. How do they work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? How to use and safely belay using an Air Traffic Controller (ATC). I just ordered a Grigri and a Mammut smart belay. As he wishes. Aug 2, 2023 · While a static belay is appropriate for top-roping, when lead belaying you want to be mobile and give a dynamic belay. For that reason, it is the preferred tool for multi-pitch climbing amongst all the ATC devices. A slider bar along the top of the device must be positioned all the way on either end, denoting either manual or assisted mode, and then the rope must be loaded into the device in the correct manner depending on the mode, which is different for each. Dec 5, 2024 · Our Verdict The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). Adding a higher level of security to your belay, the lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot belay device lends easy rope payout, which is less tiring for belayers and more secure for climbers. In this article, I’ll briefly discuss the evolion of belaying and belay devices overtime, talk about some of the most common belay devices on the market, including thier pros and cons, and then share my unsolicited advice to help you deploy the right belay device at the right time. factor 2), it can be very difficult to hold them with an ATC--although if you're taking falls like that, you have bigger problems. The ATC was clipped into the master point at the top via a biner and the lead rope fed through as normal down to the climber below. 7 mm to 11 mm. Prefer lowering top rope on ATC as well, gives me a more direct control (the GriGri handle is pretty sensitive). Dec 16, 2022 · What's a Belay Device? A Brief History of Belay Devices Top Roping and Lead Belaying Rappelling with a Belay Device The Different Types of Belay Devices Comparison Table 1. the second climber). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. ” Every tube-like belay device produced after the ATC by other brands was also called an ATC, just like every tissue paper is called Kleenex by most people. [15] belay on Directly belaying off the anchor is a great technique when providing a belay from the top. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. Dec 22, 2023 · But it wasn’t alwasys like that. I'm coming from the cycling world, so gear is important to me. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. Dec 5, 2024 · Lead or top-rope belaying with the Giga Jul can be done in either assisted braking or manual mode. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows how to give a direct belay for the follower once you have led the trad pitch. Jul 11, 2018 · The ATC Pilot is incredibly intuitive to use, especially for climbers who already have experience using belay devices. In this video, the AAC applies the fundamental principles of belay to lead belaying, and divides lead belaying into 5 skill blocks: 1.

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